My blog about my wargaming activities. I collect a lot of 15mm miniatures for the American War of Independence and so collect a lot of rules for this period. I started miniatures with Napoleonics, so I have a number of armies in 6mm and 15mm figures for skirmishing. I have15mm WW II figures that I use for Flames of War, Memoir '44, and someday, Poor Bloody Infantry. Finally there is my on-again, off-again relationship with paper soldiers that I sometimes write about.
Friday, January 29, 2010
Hoe that doesn't irritate anyone. I have so few comments as it is! :D
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Finally, for the sun-burned warrior set, we have a Flesh wash over Citadel Dwarf Flesh. This really turned out bad. Although you can see the wash did a nice job of shading the Dwarf Flesh color, it is really too subtle for anything other than a camera on magnification. The armor was Mud wash over White and the tunic White highlights over Mud wash over White. Again, the contrast between Mud and White is too great to use that combination again without layering in other colors.
- A better looking flesh color for Caucasians. That means a little bit of very light skin patches, here and there.
- Shading for well-defined figures, but not too subtle, nor too stark a contrast between light and dark.
- An easy painting method, but not necessarily quick. (Although quick would be nice.)
- A method for picking out details in armor and clothing. Again, not too subtle nor too stark a contrast.
So, I decided to start with the lightest color of all, white, and wash it, seeing what the effects were. As flesh color is something I paint a lot of lately (I am painting ancients at the moment, so there is a lot of flesh to be painted). For painting flesh, Citadel offers three basic colors: Flesh, Sepia, and Mud. Over white, Flesh gives a reddish, sun-burnt hue, Sepia fives a orange-brown hue, and Mud a darker-brown hue. By the way, the Black wash gives a gray hue over white.
The good thing about Citadel washes (or bad, depending upon your point of view) is that one coat will not do. Like painting with watercolors, that means you wash with one color and then wash with a different to get a different shade. You can also mix them together. For example I mixed Green and Mud and made a nice Olive color. By using Privateer Press' Yellow ink and putting Mud as the second coat, I got a good Dark Mustard color.
For some figures that are deeply cut, it may take more than two coats. I use small brushes to apply the washes, that way I can move pools of wash, lightening or darkening areas, as necessary. If I do a third coat, it is usually only to specific problem areas (shin, elbows, noses, and ankles) so I don't darken the other areas too much. For figures that are not cut at all, for example old Scruby miniatures or some of the simpler Irregular Miniatures sculpts, washing won't work at all as the figure would be uniformly the same color.
Ultimately, that is the point of washing: darken the recesses while keeping the highlights lighter, effectively shading the figure without a lot of effort. Washing does that for you, but it is not as simple as dipping. On the other hand, washing produces better results, in my opinion.
Pictures to follow.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
1. The steel bases are not thick enough for gripping with my fat fingers (and I do not have fingernails extending beyond the tips of my fingers).
2. The large magnetic sheets seem to attract debris which likes to embed into it (like sand, flock, rocks, etc.). It also seems to lose magnetism over time (and I don't mean years).
So, I decided to reverse the process and put magnets on the bases and steel in the transport box. At first I used rare earth magnets, but found the problems were:
1. You had to drill out holes in the basing material, which took time and created a mess, which the wife says I already make too much of.
2. You had to be careful drilling the holes so the magnet was flush with the bottom of the base. Easier said than done. Sometimes you had to fill in some of the holes as they were too deep, sometimes drill more as they were too shallow, and sometimes you just gave up.
3. You had to be careful gluing the magnets into the base. Too much glue over the top and it lowered the magnetic strength. Not enough glue and when you pulled the base off of the steel sheet the magnet stayed behind.
Finally, I decided to use magnetic strips on the bottom of the bases, as it:
1. Would be flush with the bottom of the base without fiddling.
2. Was easy to cut to size.
3. Was easy to attach (it had double-sided tape on it).
The problem, though, was that last little bit; getting the magnet to stay stuck onto the base. As the strips of flexible magnetic "tape" comes in rolls, it liked to stay curled and the ends would start to detach base (the double-sided tape was not that strong). So you were left with pulling out the super glue and carefully gluing the ends that popped up, but sometimes they would pop up before the glue hardened and then harden curled.
I finally found a solution that seems to be working ... so far. What I do is take the flexible magnetic strips and iron them onto the bottom of the base. The heat from the iron helps melt the adhesive on the double-sided tape giving it more sticking power. To help the process, I affix the tape to the bottom of the base and immediately iron it flat. (If it starts to bubble your iron is too hot or you are ironing too long. Stop if the magnet catches fire. LOL) I then put the base onto a cold, galvanized steel sheet and that helps keep the base flat while the magnet cools and the adhesive hardens.
It thought about affixing the magnets to the bases prior to gluing the figures to the base so I could put a heavy book on top of the bases while they cool, but the problem is gripping the base while trying to hold a hot iron to the other side of it. :-/
Saturday, January 16, 2010
So, I thought the answer was gluing the spears in better. Easier said than done. More like gluing my fingers to the Spartan helmets. Besides, I wasn't exactly keen on straight wire spears and how they looked. They did not look like ... well, spears. They looked like bo staffs.
I saw that Xyston made leaf-headed wire spears, and I wanted to buy some Xyston Thracians - so I went to the Warweb website to order them. Unfortunately, I got so caught up ordering Xyston's other products I forgot to buy the spears themselves! (Don't you hate when that happens?)
Next stop was TMP on how to cheaply make my own and the one that intrigued me was the buy who made them out of the plastic bristles of a broom. I was skeptical, to say the least. The advantages, he said, were that they flexed, so you could move them against other troops in combat and when you hit them accidentally with your hand, that give would mean it would not snap out. You just needed to make sure they were stored straight. Crimp the head with pliers and you have a flat spot; cut with scissors to shape to a spear head.
Well, I was intrigued, but still skeptical. So, off to the dollar store to find me some bristles. The problem there is that so many products don't really have adequate bristles for making spears.
The bristles on many brooms fray. The bristle itself is made up on tiny strands bonded together, that separate after using the broom awhile. I don't know if the dollar store is cleaning its floors with the brooms in their stock, but most of the products on the shelf were already frayed, leading me to believe that cutting the ends would start the fraying process (like yarn or twine does).
Scrub brushes were better in that they didn't fray and were the right thickness, but they are extruded in a wavy pattern or as flat strips, which doesn't make for a good spear.
Finally, I got to the bottle, dish, and toilet brushes. The bristles were a little thinner than I wanted, but they were straight and smooth and for $1, produced a LOT of spears. So, crack the plastic handle and throw it away. Untwist the metal wires holding the bristles, and be ready to put a lot of material into a ziplock bag. You can take pliers and crush the tip, cut with scissors to shape, and then glue in the hand. Once they are in their firmly and have dried, they give enough so there is no threat of snapping out of the hand.
I starting adding green stuff to the flattened head to give it more depth, but I found that putting green stuff straight to the bristle without flattening it, produces a spear head harder to shape. Definitely better to flatten the bristle then add green stuff, wood filler, caulk, or whatever to add body.
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- Huachuca City, Arizona, United States
- I am 58 yrs old now. I bought a house in Huachuca City, AZ working for a software company for the last three years. To while away the hours I like to wargame -- with wooden, lead, and sometimes paper miniatures -- usually solo. Although I am a 'rules junkie', I almost always use rules of my own (I like to build upon others' ideas, but it seems like there is always something "missing" or "wrong").